Choose Winter-hardy Conifers! Geoplastics Makes Dreams Come True

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Choose Winter-hardy Conifers! Geoplastics Makes Dreams Come True
Choose Winter-hardy Conifers! Geoplastics Makes Dreams Come True

Video: Choose Winter-hardy Conifers! Geoplastics Makes Dreams Come True

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных
Video: Choosing Topiaries For The Landscape 2023, January
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January 29 at the Biological Museum. KA Timiryazev hosted another long-awaited evening of the "Sad & Sadik" magazine.

The topics of this evening were "Winter hardiness and shelter of conifers", presented by a lecture by Sergei Kuptsov, a researcher at the Moscow State University Botanical Garden, and "Geoplastics", which was told by Svetlana Chizhova, PhD in Biological Sciences, Director of the "Landscape Art" company.

The assortment of conifers on our market is now so diverse that it is sometimes very difficult not to make a mistake in choosing. It is one thing to choose a plant according to the shape of the crown, texture and color of the needles, and the growth rate. But if we forget about the problems of wintering our handsome men, we will not get any decorative effect from them, but on the contrary, only disappointments.

When choosing conifers, you can safely purchase European larch and all its varieties (Potanin's larch is not winter-hardy). Also, there will be no problems with wintering Siberian fir (it is not resistant only to air pollution). Fir Nordmann, the so-called Danish spruce, freezes in winter and gets sunburn, is not resistant to low air humidity and waterlogging of the soil. Make sure to drain when planting. Korean fir is sun-loving and frost-hardy.

Feel free to plant a blue spruce. The varieties with very light, almost white, needles have been developed from its Hixie variety. They are also winter-hardy and heat-resistant. Spruce Canadian "Konica" has delicate needles, therefore it does not tolerate direct sun. You need to plant it so that there is a shadow on the south side, then you can not cover it for the winter.

The hemlock is not very heat- and drought-resistant, but the pseudo-jug "Glauka"very resistant to cold, has a compact crown, grows faster than spruce. Weeping varieties are available. The green form hibernates worse than the gray.

One of the most winter-hardy thujas is western thuja, as well as its varieties. But the giant thuja (folded) is not resistant to dry air, it can dry out both in summer and in winter.

If we talk about cypress trees, then the common Lawson cypress is very freezing, it does not tolerate planting in a sunny place, it does not tolerate drying out of the soil and water shortage in the summer. The pea cypress "Filifera" is distinguished by its high winter hardiness and unpretentiousness, it is resistant to the sun, you can forget to water it, plant it in a cold lowland - it will survive in these conditions too. However, it is best to plant it in partial shade and provide good watering. Very winter-hardy nutkan cypress, especially its weeping form "Pendula", but it does not tolerate dry soil and fade in the sun.

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Of the yews, the Canadian yew will not give trouble, but it is not very decorative, it is a whip on the ground. You can plant a medium yew "Aureavariigata" - yellow-bordered, grows quickly (annual growth up to 50 cm), does not require shelter, it is better to plant in a sunny place. All others are not winter-hardy, they require shelter for the winter.

As for junipers, many of them prefer open sunny places; in the shade, the crown turns out to be loose and loses its decorative effect. Common juniper tolerates some shading. Juniper is susceptible to dry aircommon and medium. All junipers do not tolerate drought. Most forms of junipers do not cover (they do not cover Virginia juniper at all), except for the first winter after young plants are planted.

You can dare to plant such exotic species as torreya nut-bearing, metosequoia (their wintering is theoretically possible), marsh cypress (stable, requires solar placement), evergreen Himalayan cedar of the Karl Fuchs variety (can live in our zone without shelter for the winter, place, soil waterlogging is dangerous).

Sequoia and Chilean araucaria do not winter with us, but if the climate warming continues at such a pace, we can live up to the moment when these heat-loving beauties appear in our gardens.

Conifers shelter technique

For coniferous plants, winter drying and freezing of needles and young (annual) growths are dangerous.

It should be remembered that all plants with green and yellow needles winter worse than those with gray. Winter hardiness depends not only on the method and timing of planting, the cultivation technique and the method of shelter, but also on the thickness of the wax coating on the needles - the higher it is, the better the plant feels, as the drying and burning of the needles decreases.

  1. In the fall, you need to carry out water-charging irrigation. Well-spilled soil draws heat from the lower soil layers, protecting the roots.
  2. You can spray the needles on a clear sunny day by removing the protective layer and then returning it to its place. This moisture will reduce the risk of pine needles drying out in winter. However, this is a very laborious trick.
  3. It is best to use a lapnik "in bulk", tying it around the trunk is not effective.
  4. You can use burlap, but it is blown out, and it does not protect well from drying out and frostbite.
  5. It is categorically impossible to use "Lutrasil" and similar non-woven materials for wrapping a plant. A greenhouse effect is created under it, the needles sweat and freeze more, but screens from the sun can be made from it.
  6. The best material for protecting ephedra is thick kraft paper in one layer. First, the plant is tied with ropes, forming a crown in the form of a column, and then wrapped in kraft paper. You need to cover it up before the New Year, and shoot around the 20th of March, choosing cloudy weather if possible. It is better that the week after removing the protection was cloudy, shade the plants yourself on sunny days.

Grow, do not freeze!

Geoplastics is a difficult topic in all respects and it was difficult to expect that it could be presented to the audience in such an elegant and interesting way. This is entirely the merit of Svetlana Chizhova, who not only has excellent command of the material, but also knows how to talk about rather heavy work easily and naturally.

Geoplastics is the art of creating or modifying existing landforms. We cannot tell in one article about all the subtleties and pitfalls of the art of geoplastics, but you can read about it in the magazine "Sad & Sadik" No. 5, 2007. Let us dwell only on the fundamental points of this wonderful lecture.

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Terracing of a flat slope can be carried out either by creating retaining walls or by constructing slopes. Both of these methods will give us the opportunity to fantasize on the flat surface of the terraces, although some of the usable area will be lost when creating the slopes.

Terracing of forest slopes and areas with trees growing on them must not be carried out - the roots of the trees spread in width by 3 crown diameters - this is a prohibited area for any kind of earthwork.

To prevent soil creeping and washout, a geogrid is used on steep slopes with a slope of more than 30 °, unless sodding is applied. Pine bark mulch is sometimes used.

On a flat ground, you can make your dreams come true - create reservoirs, hills and hollows, submerged gardens, playgrounds, flower beds, rock gardens and much more, for which your imagination is enough.

When creating a submerged garden, it is necessary to make a deepening 0.5 m below the surrounding area. The perimeter is formed by retaining walls. A garden like this looks good, done in a regular style.

Creation of hollows - several hills with depressions - is impossible without drainage. For him, pits are used to drain water, filled with rubble. If open troughs are to be created, they should be sloped with drains.

When creating a rock garden, it is important to fill the hill in several stages with tamping and moistening each layer. Plants are planted the next year.

Creating stairs

The staircase consists of two elements - the tread (the platform on which the foot is placed) and the riser. The optimum tread width is 30 cm, and the riser height is 10-15 cm. If the riser is less than 10 cm, the staircase will turn into a "stumbling".

Based on these dimensions, the number of steps is calculated. The ladder runs at right angles. A duplicate ramp is provided next to it.

Ladders are divided into several groups according to the method of execution:

  1. Staircase on a concrete base. They are the strongest and most durable.
  2. Dry mix ladder - thick stone, sand and crushed stone base are used.
  3. Ladder made of bulk materials - use boards, pegs for support, geotextile to protect against weeds growing from below, gravel screening, mulch, fine gravel.
  4. Large stone ladder - use large stones with a flat surface.

The edges of the stairs are decorated with a concreted border (at the level of steps or higher), a border made of sandstone or large stones with planting (rejuvenated, stonecrops, etc.).

Retaining walls

They are built from different materials:

  1. Concrete. To the depth of soil freezing, in addition to the massif itself, concrete piles are made, and for high walls a concrete base is required. Drainage is being built behind the wall, geotextile is used. On the inside, the wall must be waterproofed.

  2. Low wall (curb wall). Drainage is not needed when creating it. It is used to create raised flower beds, beds.
  3. Retaining wall using the dry masonry method - create it from large stones. Neither cement, nor dry mix, nor facing glue are used, crushed stone and geotextile are used. It is important to maintain a slope of about 5-10 ° from the vertical. These walls are used to create rock gardens.
  4. Flagstone retaining wall. The base is made of concrete. The top layer of limestone often comes off.

That's how it is, geoplastics. Good luck!

We would like to thank the editors of the Sad & Sadik magazine and the editor-in-chief Rosa Shornikova for this meeting, for the opportunity to receive scientifically substantiated recommendations from leading experts. We thank the Biological Museum. K. And Timiryazev for a wonderful room.

Look for information about the next events of the "Garden & Sadik" magazine in the "Exhibitions" section of our portal GreenInfo.ru

Until next time!

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