Cleaning Perennials For Winter Storage

Table of contents:

Cleaning Perennials For Winter Storage
Cleaning Perennials For Winter Storage
Video: Cleaning Perennials For Winter Storage
Video: Cutting Back Perennials in the Fall 🌿🍂✂️ // Garden Answer 2023, February
Anonim

It seems that quite recently we were all concerned about sowing and planting, and now the time has come for harvesting fruits, vegetables and perennial flowers that do not winter in the open field for storage. The correct harvesting of bulbs and tubers determines not only their storage in winter, but also the quality of flowering next summer. These rules have long been familiar to experienced flower growers, but every year there are many new enthusiasts who need to know all this if they want to keep their favorite varieties until next year.

Gladiolus
Gladiolus

Gladiolus

Montbrecia, or crocosmia
Montbrecia, or crocosmia

Montbrecia, or crocosmia

Gladiolus and montbrecia

To obtain healthy ripe corms, it is necessary that 20-25 days pass from the moment of flowering to their digging, during which time the nutrients will pass from the leaves and stems to the bulbs. Digging should be started at the onset of stable temperatures at night (0 … + 3 ° С) - usually this happens in late September – early October, but you need to monitor the weather. First, you should dig up early flowering, then medium and late flowering varieties. Plants grown from tubers are dug up last. The best time to dig up the bulbs is in dry weather. If the temperature outside is below 0 ° C, then the dug out bulbs must be immediately brought into a room with a positive temperature. If the weather is sunny and warm in early October, but the leaves and stems of the plants have begun to turn yellow, start digging.

The digging technique is simple and not heavy, pry each row with a shovel to a depth greater than that on which the corms are located, and fold them in the garden bed. Under no circumstances tug at the stems with your hands: the roots go deep into the soil, you will not pull out the bulbs, but only break off the stem at the base - such bulbs will not be stored.

Choose the bulbs and tubers from the ground carefully, then cut the stem at a height of 2-3 cm from the bulb with a pruning shears and shorten the roots by 2 cm. Do not dry the bulbs with stems and leaves, because the leaves evaporate a lot of moisture, taking it away from the bulbs, which makes them lose their turgor and become soft. Also on the leaves there can be various diseases and pests, which, during storage, can go to the bulbs. Immediately discard small bulbs, and destroy the darkened, with disturbed integumentary scales, anyway, they will get sick during storage. In fine weather, air dry the bulbs, then transfer to a warm room to dry.

Corms of gladioli
Corms of gladioli

Corms of gladioli

Corms of montbrecia
Corms of montbrecia

Corms of montbrecia

The bulbs are dried in a room for 20–25 days, at a temperature of + 20… + 22 ° С. After drying, it is imperative to remove old bulbs, roots, excess upper scales and separate the tubers (they must be stored separately from large bulbs). Cleaning may reveal diseased bulbs again and must be removed. After that, the bulbs should lie in a warm room for another 2-3 days. Then they must be stored in the basement, pantry, cellar, refrigerator, with a constant temperature of + 5 … + 7 ° С (no more than + 10 ° С) and humidity of 60–70%.

During winter storage, you can lose up to 40% of the bulbs, so inspect the bulbs 1-2 times a month, remove soft or stained bulbs immediately so that the disease does not spread to others. Tubercles, small bulbs can be stored in an open plastic bag in damp sand, but again in a cool place to prevent the bulbs from drying out. Another important point is that it is better to store the bulbs in cardboard boxes or boxes, laid out in one layer, cover with paper or newspaper on top. Put labels with the name of the variety in the boxes.

Montbrecia corms are harvested and preserved in the same way as gladioli, only they are stored unpeeled, with roots and children, and in the spring they cleanse and separate the children.

Tuberous begonia

Tuberous begonia Nonstop JOY Yellow F1
Tuberous begonia Nonstop JOY Yellow F1

Tuberous begonia Nonstop JOY Yellow F1

Begonia tubers are harvested after the first frost. The above-ground part is cut off, leaving a stem 2-3 cm high. The tubers uncleaned from the soil are placed in boxes and transferred to a warm room for drying. After 2 weeks, the remnants of the stem are removed, shaking off excess soil, placed in boxes, sprinkled with peat. Store at + 6 … + 8 ° С and air humidity 80–85%.

Begonia tubers
Begonia tubers

Begonia tubers

Dahlia

Dahlias usually suffer from frost damage. But do not rush to remove them, although all the leaves have turned black, since at this time there is an intensive outflow of nutrients from the stems and leaves into the tubers. Tubers should be harvested in late September - early October, with the onset of stable night temperatures of 0 … + 3 ° С.

Dahlia cultural
Dahlia cultural

Dahlia cultural

Digging should be started by undoing the stems. Then cut the stems slightly below the hilling level with the pruning shears, where the stem has not been frozen. Leave the height of the hemp 8–10 cm. It is best to dig a small trench in a spade bayonet within a radius of 20 cm around the bush and carefully pry on the tubers - do not forget that they are very fragile and weakly attached to the root collar. Never pull on the stems, as the roots can come off, which will further lead to the death of the tuber. Carefully inspect the tuber - if there are rotten areas or torn off roots and tubers, then the diseased areas must be cut out to healthy tissue, and all breaks, breaks and cuts must be sprinkled with crushed coal or ash. Then carefully clean the root tuber from the ground and spread it in one layer in a cool place at a temperature of + 3 … + 5 ° C and a humidity of 85–90%.

Dahlia root tubers
Dahlia root tubers

Dahlia root tubers

There are a few important rules to follow.

Do not dry dahlia root tubers in a warm room at room temperature! Under these conditions, they immediately begin to evaporate a large amount of moisture, and even if after that the tubers are transferred to a cool room, this process will continue, the tubers will dry out to a mummified state and will no longer revive.

  • Before storing it, check that there is no water in the lower cavity of the hemp located above the root collar. To do this, pierce the stump with an awl and tilt it so that the water flows out. If the water is not removed, the tubers will start to rot.
  • Often, the infection is introduced when pruning the stems, so the pruner should be disinfected before pruning each bush.
  • Root tubers should be divided only in spring!

After 15–20 days of drying, the tubers must be transferred to a permanent storage location. You can store them in the basement of the house, cellar or vegetable pit, but remember that the storage temperature should be + 3 … + 6 ° С, air humidity 60–75%. It is best to place the tubers in dry sand or fresh sawdust. In winter, you should regularly (1-2 times a month) check the tubers, remove rotten areas and sprinkle with crushed coal or ash. During the storage period, there is always a waste - both rotten and dried tubers.

Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums also suffer from early fall frosts. If at this time they are covered with burlap, polyethylene film or paper, then the flowers will be saved and will be able to delight with their beauty for a long time.

In our climate, chrysanthemums do not always overwinter well and even die, so beautiful cut varieties can be dug up in the fall and transplanted into a heated greenhouse for the winter in the ground or planted in boxes and pots on a warm veranda.

For more information on winter storage of heat-loving chrysanthemums, see the article How to grow multiflora chrysanthemums.

Chrysanthemum korean
Chrysanthemum korean

Chrysanthemum korean

"Ural gardener", No. 37, 2016

Popular by topic