Charming Melas

Charming Melas
Charming Melas

Video: Charming Melas

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных
Video: Salı Okka / Zafırıs Melas 2019 /Masala - Lıve 2023, February
Anonim

"If you want, reader, to plunge into a living spring of genuine beauty, genuine poetry in our ordinary and prosaic age for several weeks, you have nothing to look for in Italy and Andalusia, you will find everything you crave in your homeland, on the southern coast of Crimea. … "- these lines of Evgeny Markov from the famous" Sketches of Crimea ", being written more than 120 years ago, are still valid today. Although much has changed since then, it is quite possible to go there, and there is still something to see there.

F. Gross. Melas. 19th century engraving
F. Gross. Melas. 19th century engraving

F. Gross. Melas. 19th century engraving

The southern coast of Crimea is a kind of world of palaces and parks. It is not for nothing that in pre-revolutionary guidebooks it was called "Russian Riviera" or "a piece of Italy" - and it is not surprising, because the royal estates of Livadia and Oreanda, the grand ducal Charax, Kurpaty, Dulber, Kichkine, etc. were located here. the former owners tried to surround them with parks and gardens, and therefore the entire South Shore was an "architectural chronicle, in which the traveler happened to see either a small house in the Asian style, the pipes of which look like minarets, or a beautiful Gothic castle, or a cozy cottage, like an English cottage, completely immersed in a sea of ​​greenery and flowers. " Fortunately, much of this "architectural chronicle" has survived to this day,though not everything is already available. Some beautiful corners are reliably hidden behind high "fences of the XXI century" - as one of the journalists aptly noted. The more valuable is what else can be seen …

One of such beautiful, but little-known corners is located not far from the famous Foros …

L.A. Perovsky
L.A. Perovsky

L.A. Perovsky

40 km west of Yalta there is a place called Melas. This unusual, beautiful name gives off something ancient. Indeed, this word is Greek and in translation sounds like "gray-haired", "dark", "silver". This is how Lev Alekseevich Perovsky called his estate. Perhaps, it reflects the natural features of the area: from the very cliffs of the yayla, with a fantastic dark ridge to the sea itself, stretches the ridge of the volcanic massif Ai-Yuri (which means "Dragon"), which sharply contrasts with the surrounding white limestone rocks. In this area, the cliffs of the yayla come close to the coast, which is why all the slopes are very steep, descending in several steps to the very coast, where they end in an unusual stone chaos of dark volcanic rocks.

It was these lands that L.A. acquired in 1834. Perovsky (leading a pedigree from the last hetman of Ukraine - Count K. G. Razumovsky) - a prominent statesman, minister of appanages under Emperor Nicholas I, participant in the war of 1812. He bought 59 dessiatines of the future estate from the owner of the neighboring Mshatka - Varvara Arkadyevna Bashmakova Perhaps this fact would not be worth mentioning if V.A. Bashmakova was not the granddaughter of the famous commander A.V. Suvorov.

At the same time, an unusual palace was built in the spirit of a medieval palazzo with four corner towers crowned with silvery onion domes. However, the building bears the imprint of other architectural styles: the Italian Renaissance, the Arab East, the Moorish. Despite the seemingly eclecticity, all the details are organically combined into a single whole thanks to the talent of the architect (presumably, this is Philip Elson).

Melas. L.A. Palace Perovsky
Melas. L.A. Palace Perovsky

Melas. L.A. Palace Perovsky

In the decoration of the outer walls of the palace, local stone, majolica tiles, modeling were used, in intricate ornaments of which there are Arabic script, images of ivy leaves and lotus flowers, as well as garlands of other flowers and figurines of birds. Arches, niches and window portals are extremely exquisitely decorated. Unfortunately, after the subsequent restoration, the original appearance of the palace has changed, and some details have been lost.

Melas. Fragment of the interior of the Perovsky Palace
Melas. Fragment of the interior of the Perovsky Palace

Melas. Fragment of the interior of the Perovsky Palace

Melas. Staircase at the Perovsky Palace
Melas. Staircase at the Perovsky Palace

Melas. Staircase at the Perovsky Palace

Melas. Perovsky Palace
Melas. Perovsky Palace

Melas. Perovsky Palace

In the same 30-40s, an extensive park was laid out in a landscape style with elements of a regular one - one of the best on the southern coast of Crimea. Nowadays, the Melassky Park, covering an area of ​​12 hectares, is a monument of gardening art. In the middle and coastal parts of the park, there are stairs, viewing platforms, walkways, balustrade fences, alleys and glades, several decorative ponds with fountains. Near the sea coast there is a unique source of low-mineralized water (type Essentuki No. 20). From the sea side, the park is bordered by an almost one and a half kilometer embankment.

Melas. Fragment of the regular park
Melas. Fragment of the regular park

Melas. Fragment of the regular park

Melas. Source on the embankment
Melas. Source on the embankment

Melas. Source on the embankment

Melas. Embankment
Melas. Embankment

Melas. Embankment

There are several wonderful places in the park, distinguished by a harmonious layout and a successful compositional combination of plants. Such, for example, is the part of the park located to the west of the Perovsky palace. Here, magnificent cypress alleys fan out from a small cozy meadow decorated with a fountain, bright spots of flower beds, magnificent specimens of a hundred-year-old pyramidal cypress and Aleppo pine surrounded by sheared laurel bushes. A well-groomed lawn and flower beds of bright annuals complete the picture of this corner.

Melas. Pines in the park
Melas. Pines in the park

Melas. Pines in the park

Melas. Fountain Corner
Melas. Fountain Corner

Melas. Fountain Corner

Melas. In the center of the park
Melas. In the center of the park

Melas. In the center of the park

The space at the northern facade of the palace is decorated in its own way. It represents a semicircular paved area in plan, surrounded by cypresses, oaks and pines. A small graceful marble fountain in oriental style (with Arabic script) against the background of a miniature bamboo grove is the main decoration of this part of the park. The intricate "lace" of the snow-white light veranda at the entrance to the palace perfectly sets off the evergreen magnolia planted near it.

Melas. Openwork veranda of the palace
Melas. Openwork veranda of the palace

Melas. Openwork veranda of the palace

Melas. Corner of the park
Melas. Corner of the park

Melas. Corner of the park

Throughout its long history, Melas changed its owners, among whom were the poet A.K. Tolstoy, Princess D. Golitsyna, Count M. Osterman, Senator F. Merkus. The last owner of Melas was E.G. Kuznetsova is the sister of the famous tea manufacturer A.G. Kuznetsov (owner of an estate in neighboring Foros), for whom (already at the beginning of the 20th century) a new oriental-style palace was built. Information about who was the architect of the new white-stone palace has not survived. It is believed that it bears the features of a new trend in Russian estate architecture - romantic retrospectivism. The ceilings of the internal interiors were painted by K. and S. Makovsky on mythological subjects. However, they, like many other things, have not survived to this day.

Melas. View of the Kuznetsova Palace and the mountains
Melas. View of the Kuznetsova Palace and the mountains

Melas. View of the Kuznetsova Palace and the mountains

Melas Kuznetsova Palace, detail
Melas Kuznetsova Palace, detail

Melas Kuznetsova Palace, detail

A.K. Tolstoy
A.K. Tolstoy

A.K. Tolstoy

Alexey Konstantinovich Tolstoy was here, with his uncle - L.A. Perovsky, in his youth, and then came 4 more times, being already the owner of the estate. 14 poems "Crimean sketches", written here, are a kind of poetic hymn to the southern coast of Crimea, the land of eternal spring.

Above this palace is a beautiful cypress alley leading to the eastern part of the park. The spaces adjacent to this palace are decorated in a regular style using cypresses, columnar yew, palms (trachycarpus Fortune), clipped laurel bushes, boxwood and evergreen viburnum. On the south side there is a small rose garden with a low border of rosemary, and on the east - a vast meadow surrounded by Lebanese and Himalayan cedars.

To the east of the palace is a grove of century-old Crimean pines, which are reflected in an oval reservoir. On clear sunny days in it, as if in a mirror, you can see the entire surrounding landscape: Mount Kilse-Burun, a pine grove and blue sky …

In the lower, seaside part of the park, paths lead to beautiful viewpoints from which you can admire the cliffs and cliffs of the yayla, the sea, and the far-visible coast.

Melas. Park near the Kuznetsova Palace
Melas. Park near the Kuznetsova Palace

Melas. Park near the Kuznetsova Palace

Melas. A platform with cedars near the Kuznetsova palace
Melas. A platform with cedars near the Kuznetsova palace

Melas. A platform with cedars near the Kuznetsova palace

Above the coastal cliff, a white-stone rotunda called "Horseshoe Happiness" is effectively located. From it along the coast to the west there is a path under the shade of openwork crowns of high juniper and Sudak pine. But here the trees part and in front of you is a small decorative reservoir surrounded by Pampas grass. In autumn, against the background of evergreen rocks, the kelreiteria trees look especially beautiful, the patterned leaves of which are colored in yellow-orange tones. In the center of the next glade there is a small fountain surrounded by a rose garden with evergreen trees and clipped laurel bushes in the background. Here, next to the olive tree, there is a cozy wooden arbor, and next to it there is a miniature "Mexican" slide.

Melas. Rotunda Horseshoe of happiness
Melas. Rotunda Horseshoe of happiness

Melas. Rotunda Horseshoe of happiness

Melas. Kelreiteria in autumn
Melas. Kelreiteria in autumn

Melas. Kelreiteria in autumn

To the credit of the current owners of the Melas Park, it should be noted that it is in good condition, well-groomed, floral decoration, beautiful lawns, which distinguishes it favorably from other "brothers", mostly abandoned to their fate.

The assortment of woody exotic species in the park exceeds 185 items. The park is extremely harmoniously inscribed in the local landscape. The cliffs of Kilse-Burun, Ai-Yuri, cliffs of the yayla and, of course, the sea reigning above it - as if a fabulous decoration created by the great creator - Nature, give the park a special charm. No wonder it was here that wonderful poetic lines were born:

There is a cozy corner, dear

Where I've been, but every time

With some passionate, hidden strength

Melas attracts me!

Its shady alleys, steep descents and ascents, His pier, where everyone is sweeter

To meet dawn with dawn together, And watch the sun rise

From the turquoise waters in the distance

And how dolphins dance around, accompanying ships.

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